Kind, not Mined®: Q&A with the founders of Ethica Diamonds
Want to say “I do” to a diamond ring but worried about how ethical it is? Mother & daughter team, Elaine and Emily Refell, founders of Ethica Diamonds*, have created a stylish jewellery brand that uses lab-grown diamonds that are Kind, not Mined®. Our founder, Lucy Johnson, sat down with them to find out if lab-grown diamonds really are the solution to diamond jewellery’s image problem.
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Hi Elaine and Emily, it’s great to get a chance to learn more about Ethica Diamonds. First off, the question I always love to ask: what made you decide to set up Ethica Diamonds?
We are a purpose-driven luxury jewellery brand created in 2010 by two women - we are a mother and daughter team - determined to make ethical jewellery inspired by a passion for people, the planet and, of course, quality. These principles guide and inspire every decision we make. Craftsmanship and attention to detail are paramount to us in creating pieces that not only stand the test of time but also hold deep sentimental value for our customers. We strive to balance jewellery that brings boundless joy to our customers, whilst contributing positively to the lives of the individuals involved in its creation. Our unwavering pursuit of quality allows us to pour our heart and soul into creating jewellery pieces that people just love to wear. After all, we would never create anything that we wouldn’t be happy to wear ourselves!
If I want to buy an ethical diamond ring, what should I look for when I'm shopping?
It’s true, diamonds really are a girl’s best friend. However, that sparkle can come at a cost. At Ethica, we believe that the best way to ensure your diamonds are a friend to both you and the planet is to keep the following categories in mind when buying. Think environment, think human and think ethical. The products we buy shouldn’t have to have a negative impact on the lives of the people who create them or the environment which produces them. Especially with so many loopholes in regulating the market, it’s difficult to ensure a mined diamond is completely free from human rights abuses. Luckily, lab grown diamonds offer a more ethical yet equally elegant alternative. We select directly from growers who use renewable energy and cutting-edge green energy processes allowing you to know that not only is your diamond fully ethical, but your money is also supporting something good too.
The Amber* takes inspiration from classic art deco rings, the thin precious metal band gently tapers
towards a mixture of round brilliant and baguette lab diamonds. Leaving you sparkling at every turn…
Why do you think "Kind, not Mined®" diamonds have become so popular recently?
In an ideal world, anything that is natural feels better than something that is forced or manufactured artificially. But in the real world, natural doesn’t always mean better. To produce one carat of diamonds, miners sift through about 250 tons of rock and sediment with the average diamond coming out of a mine just one tenth of a carat, which is very small. Only 20% are suitable for gems and of those, shockingly around just 2% are cut to the best standard. As a result, most of us would agree that all of this damage to our Earth is neither authentic or meaningful and if there is a kinder way, then it has to be better. Lab grown diamonds offer an inclusive, accessible and most importantly, greener future for the diamond industry.
What options do you offer?
Our driving ethos at Ethica is ‘Kind, not Mined®’. In order to achieve this, we’re proud to offer two solutions in securing your diamond fix. Firstly, our signature Ethica Diamond composed of premium graded, lab grown moissanite infused with lab grown diamond. The Ethica Diamond is not tied to any fixed pricing structures, tainted with environmental or humanitarian harm and are even cheaper than lab diamonds, making them the most accessible alternative available on the market. Secondly, there’s our Sustainably Rated Lab Diamonds. Here, you can choose which supplier you’d like your lab diamond to be sourced from, allowing you to make an informed decision tailored to suit both your wishes and budget. Whether an Ethica Diamond or pure lab grown diamond, we can provide details of each supplier and their sustainability efforts. All of our jewellery is available with both options alongside an array of lab grown coloured gemstones too.
The Sophie* ring is a classic, drawing you straight to the centre-round brilliant
lab-grown diamond in this dainty four-claw engagement ring.
What is the Ethica Diamond and how is it different to the lab-grown diamonds you sell?
Our signature gemstone, the Ethica diamond*, is a lab grown stone produced using patented technology, which is precisely cut from premium grade silicon carbide (moissanite) with a diamond infusion and is independently certified by the IGI or GRI. Silicon carbide has a hardness rating of 9.7 Mohs, and with the diamond fused on the surface, the outer hardness is 10 Mohs (the scale of hardness and scratch resistance), which is the same as diamond. They are faceted and hand polished by trained diamond cutters in the same way diamonds are cut, which imitates the appearance of diamond very closely. Even jewellers may struggle to tell the difference. We really believe beautiful jewellery shouldn’t have to have a negative impact on the planet. Therefore, each Ethica diamond is fully traceable and boasts a sustainable origin illustrating our commitment to preserving and protecting our precious Earth.
How do you actually "grow" a diamond?
At Ethica, we favour the Chemical Vapour Distillation (CVD) method when growing our diamonds because it uses less energy whilst producing diamonds of the highest quality and purity. The technical part behind CVD begins with a slice of a diamond containing the atomic blueprint for a new diamond to form. Carbon is added in a plasma reactor that reaches 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit - as hot as the sun’s surface. The CVD process uses ultra-pure carbon-rich gases in a controlled chamber. Carbon-based gases, such as methane, are heated until they break apart allowing the carbon atoms within the gas to separate. These tiny carbon atoms fall onto a diamond substrate and build up layers resulting in a rough diamond crystal. Atom by atom, the diamond lattice forms, the process by which diamonds form in nature is re-created. This process yields gem-grade Type IIA diamonds within 6 to 12 weeks resulting in a unique stone which is then cut, polished and graded by the same world-renowned labs that certify earth-mined diamonds.
Lab grown diamonds* play with light just like their mined counterparts providing that all important sparkle
How are lab diamonds more ethical if so much energy is required to grow them?
Surprisingly, it’s not a given that lab grown diamonds are sustainable simply because they are grown in a lab and not mined. Whilst many jewellery companies might promote lab grown diamonds as “ethical” and "environmentally conscious” the huge amount of power needed to create a diamond causes significant output in carbon pollution especially if the energy source is dirty. The 2019 Trucost report found that, on average, greenhouse gas emissions are three times greater for lab-grown diamonds than their mined counterparts. Ultimately, the only way to navigate this and to ensure lab diamonds are sustainable is by ensuring the energy used to grow the diamond is from renewable sources. This is why we only select Sustainably Rated lab diamonds from a small selection of growing partners. They are fully committed to sustainability, taking time and care to grow the highest quality diamonds and not cutting corners to create cheap ones that are produced unethically that are now flooding the market.
Which is your favourite of your rings, and why?
We offer a wide variety of rings to suit any style or occasion. For a bold yet practical everyday basic then a chunky bezel setting is a clear winner. We also offer delicate, thinner bands such as the Sira* or Seraphina* ring. Both are iconic pieces, designed as staples to be incorporated into any look for effortless elegance. However, if it’s a showstopper piece you’re looking for, a halo or hidden halo style is designed to offer high aesthetic impact. Our Isona* or Fleur rings are sure to deliver on this promise! These are just a few of our favourites illustrating Ethica diamonds are made to be stacked, swapped and cherished for years to come.
Have any questions for Elaine & Emily? Please ask them below in the comments section. And if there are any innovative jewellery brands you’d like us to know about, do let us know.
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